| |
Côte
de Nuits
The Côte de Nuits forms the northern half of the Côte
d’Or region. It stretches southwards through the communes of Marsannay,
Fixin, Brochon, Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny,
Flagey-Echézeaux, Vougeot, Vosne-Romanée, Nuits-St-Georges, Prémeaux,
Comblanchien and Corgoloin.The greatest wines of the Côtes de Nuits are from
the central villages from Gevrey-Chambertin to Nuits-St-Georges. Here, the
more muscular premier cru and grand cru wines of the best producers reign
supreme among the fine pinot noir reds.
At Marsannay-la-Côte are produced light and elegant
reds, but this village is most famed for its Marsannay Rosé (pinot noir). At
Fixin some good, firm, and quite tannic wines are found and are often
described as “sauvage” or “animale”. Fougeray’s Clos Marion (monopole) is
an excellent example of this appellation.
Gevrey-Chambertin produces wines of fine quality,
structure, and can attain a considerable age. It has the largest production
of any village of the Côte d’Or with a multitude of premiers crus and an
array of fine grands crus including the splendid Chambertin,
Mazis-Chambertin, Latricières-Chambertin, Griotte-Chambertin, and the
excellent Clos de Bèze. At Morey-St-Denis can be found the elegant and
expressive wines of the grands crus Bonnes-Mares, Clos de la Roche, and Clos
de Tart, to mention just a famous few. In neighbouring Chambolle-Musigny,
which produces full, rounded, and voluptious wines, are the continuation of
the grand cru Bonnes Mares, and its own special Le Musigny. |
| |
In Vougeot, Flagey-Echézeaux, and Vosne-Romanée, the
greatest wines are the grands crus of Clos de Vougeot, Grands Echézeaux, La
Tache, Romanée, and Richebourg. These are all rich, rounded, elegant
burgundies of complex character. Somewhat further south at Nuits-St-Georges,
there are no grands crus but an abundance of some good premiers crus. These
are good firm wines when young, often with a wonderful bouquet of tar and
roses, yet medium-full bodied. Styles and qualities vary hugely between the
many growers. We think Domaine Remoriquet strikes the right balance assisted
by a considerable depth of winemaking knowledge.
The best vineyards of the Côte de Nuits are situated
on the slopes which are clearly visible looking west from the N74 as one
travels down that main “route de vin” artery through the Côte d’Or. The
vineyards on the flatter and lower slopes are more susceptible to frost
damage in severe winter conditions lasting beyond 3 - 4 days.
Côte
de
Beaune
Heading south/south-west on the N74 one arrives
immediately in the Côte de Beaune at the villages of Pernand-Vergelesses and
Ladoix-Serrigny. Sound and enjoyable red and white wines are produced here
but none of great distinction. Well made wines, fuller and more characterful
in style, are found at Savigny-lès-Beaune and Aloxe-Corton. Les Vergelesses
is acknowledged as probably the best premier cru of Savigny. The Corton
Grand Cru can be very fine and elegant depending on the producer and
vintage, along with Corton-Bressandes. Its white counterpart Corton-Charlemagne,
second only to Le Montrachet as the finest Côte d’Or white, shows flintiness
and spice, and can age for ten years or more.
The beautiful town of Beaune
is the hub of the Côte d’Or region in viticultural terms, the home to many
of the top négoçiants, and host to the famous annual Hospices de Beaune wine
auctions. South-west of Beaune is the village of Pommard which produces
full, rich, structured, and often quite tannic wines for ageing. The next
village is Volnay where the reds tend to be more feminine and graceful,
finely-perfumed, and earlier maturing. Thereafter are found the most
important white wine-producing villages of the Côte d’Or. Meursault is known
for its sumptious châteaux and its rich, supple, and concentrated wines. It
has several premiers crus including the well-known Charmes, Perrières, and
Genevrières.
Meursault borders
Puligny-Montrachet whose wines are a total contrast in style. They are not
as rich, and display a wonderful steely concentration of minerality and
complex oriental fruit aspects. There are many premiers crus vineyards which
include the noteworthy Cailleret, Folatières, and Combottes, along with the
magnificent grands crus such as le Montrachet, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet,
and Chevalier-Montrachet.
The third outstanding white
wine village is Chassagne-Montrachet, whose wines by style fall midway
between those of Meursault and Puligny. More broad in structure than Puligny,
and somewhat richer, they can be buttery and complex. There are several
premiers crus and the village has its own grand cru being
Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet although it shares two others with neighbouring
Puligny. Whilst the white wines of Chassagne are world-renowned, they
represent only 40% of the village’s production. The village red wines can be
very good indeed depending on both the producer and vintage.
The outlying villages of St
Romain, Auxey-Duresses, St-Aubin and Santenay all produce good and sometimes
excellent red and white wines. Maranges is the most southerly commune of the
Côte d’Or which borders the Côte Chalonnaise. It produces some delicious
fruity reds which need little ageing.
|